Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is often referred to as "The Paris of South America," but it's so much more than that. The city features characteristics of great global cities like Paris, Vienna, Rome, Barcelona, Havana, San Juan, Miami and others. But Buenos Aires stands alone, a sprawling metropolis of more than 12 million people, located well below the equator (closer to Antarctica, in fact) in the upper-eastern quadrant of Argentina.  Anyone who has seen the stage or movie version of "Evita" has witnessed the colorful history of the city. Buenos Aires (which, roughly translated, means "fresh air") was founded originally in 1536, but the Spaniards sent to colonize the mouth of the Rio de la Plata were forced away by the indigenous population. A second, more successful attempt was made in 1580, and it wasn't until the early 1800s that the city and then the country emancipated itself from the Spanish crown, becoming the Republic of Argentina.  You might think that planning by the French, buildings by the Spanish and statuary by the Italians would lend a schizophrenic air to this sprawling capital. But the fact that the populace is a melting pot of European and South American cultures (half of Buenos Aires' citizens are of Italian descent) makes the city more open and cosmopolitan, celebrating differences and welcoming tourists from around the world.  But don't be deceived by appearances -- Buenos Aires may have the look and feel of European city, but scratch the surface and you'll soon realize that Buenos Aires is a South American city with very real South American challenges. The main ones are massive unemployment and a huge influx of migrant workers from neighboring countries, the majority of which live in slums either side of the main highways in area called Villa 31. Though not as (in)famous as Rio's favelas, these shantytowns lack running water, electricity, basic sanitation and schooling and the authorities are trying to figure out how to incorporate them into the city. The country also wrestles with high inflation and unemployment. More than anywhere else in the country, Buenos Aires felt the effects of years of more than 2,000 percent inflation and that is still felt today. When the Argentine economy collapsed in 2001, the "Portenos" -- as the city's residents call themselves, in a reference to the city's origins as a port -- took to the streets demanding someone be held accountable. Others formed collectives to purchase and run their places of business. The flip side, of course, was that the devaluation of the Argentine peso made a visit to the city very affordable, and tourism thrived.  Even today, most of the city's goods and services remain a tremendous bargain for visitors from Europe or North America. (Subway rides total 30 cents, and a steak main course costs around $15.) Hoteliers have gotten wise to this attractiveness, and accommodation prices have increased. However, the opening of more properties, particularly of the boutique variety, and the rise of Airbnb means there is plenty of competition, and good rates can be found. Compared to stays in other world-class cities, a trip to Buenos Aires is a bargain, and once you visit, you'll likely want to return.  The city features numerous draws: architecture, acres and acres of woods and parks, fabulous meals of traditional grilled meats and hearty Argentine wines. Visitors also enjoy the Latin sizzle, the soul of the portenos and the genuine warmth and humor of the people. Bask in the camaraderie you feel at a cafe (even if you don't speak Spanish), the thrill you get from watching a couple performing a tango on a San Telmo street corner, the smile of a child wearing a Boca Juniors T-shirt. Maybe you'll be privileged to be offered a sip of yerba tea from a stranger's mate (pronounced mah-tay) cup, a social tradition in Argentina. Perhaps a shopkeeper will point you in the direction of a fabulous tavern. And, maybe you'll dance the tango in an after-hours social club.