islands of enchantment | a voyage through singapore, thailand, malaysia & bali

In its own way, Singapore is an oasis in Southeast Asia. It enjoys a low crime rate, and its infrastructure -- from road and mass-transit systems to a state-of-the-art airport at Changi -- is highly sophisticated. The city also is clean -- so much so that, for years, people were forbidden by law to chew gum in its streets, and eating on the subway can result in a heavy fine. This modern and dynamic destination -- which ranks either as a pro or a con, depending on your sensibilities -- is to cities what Disney is to theme parks.

Technically a city-state, Singapore, connected with manmade bridges to Malaysia, is made up of the main island and more than 60 surrounding islets. The mainland spans 42 kilometres east to west and 23 kilometres north to south. In the north, it shares a border with Malaysia; in the south, islands belonging to Indonesia can be visited via a short ferry ride. Singapore is located just north of the equator and is sultry, tropical and humid year-round.

Singapore is one of the world's biggest banking and transportation hubs. It's one of the most popular stopovers for folks travelling between Europe and Australia. Yet, Singapore is among the 20 smallest nations in the world -- though with 5.7 million people it's also the second-most densely populated country. Despite busy streets, shopping areas and public transportation, it normally does not feel as crowded as large U.S. city centres. Its modern design helps eliminate any feeling of congestion.

Like Hong Kong, Singapore is a city with great cultural diversity, well-developed infrastructure and a very cosmopolitan feeling. Popular with cruise lines for day-long port calls, as well as embarkation, Singapore is easily navigable, with most tourist attractions concentrated in three areas: Orchard Road, the colonial district and Sentosa.

Thailand's largest island lures visitors for basking on unspoiled beaches, diving and snorkelling in the Andaman Sea and personalized pampering at ravishing resorts. The cruise port is about a 20-minute drive from Phuket town, a buzzy mecca for shopping (bargain hard, except in malls or brand-name stores), restaurants and clubs. Save time for exotic shore excursions, like visiting elephant and gibbon sanctuaries, and gasping at the more than 147-foot-tall Big Buddha, adorned with white Burmese jade marble, towering over Nakkerd Hills. Lunch at a resort for exquisite Thai cuisine that's easy on Western stomachs and for sensational ocean views.

Thailand's largest island lures visitors for basking on unspoiled beaches, diving and snorkelling in the Andaman Sea and personalized pampering at ravishing resorts. The cruise port is about a 20-minute drive from Phuket town, a buzzy mecca for shopping (bargain hard, except in malls or brand-name stores), restaurants and clubs. Save time for exotic shore excursions, like visiting elephant and gibbon sanctuaries, and gasping at the more than 147-foot-tall Big Buddha, adorned with white Burmese jade marble, towering over Nakkerd Hills. Lunch at a resort for exquisite Thai cuisine that's easy on Western stomachs and for sensational ocean views.

Penang, a 111-square-mile island off the west coast of Malaysia, gets its name from the betel nut tree, called "pinang" in Malaysian. While some residents still chew betel nuts, you'll probably be more interested in sinking your teeth into the astonishing variety of foods available in this culinary capital. Add in the historic architecture that boosted port city George Town onto UNESCO's World Heritage list, plus the rich blend of cultures, and Penang makes for a rewarding destination. Located at the northern entry to the Strait of Malacca, the island was used for centuries as a safe harbour for traders from China, India, Arabia and Europe. British Captain Francis Light arranged to have Penang ceded by the Sultan of Kedah to the British East India Company in 1786 in return for promised military protection. With the construction of Fort Cornwallis and the founding of George Town (named after King George III), Penang became Britain's first stronghold in Southeast Asia. Trade flourished -- including rubber, tin and opium -- and attracted fortune-seekers from around the world. The island was captured by the Japanese in World War II and became part of the independent state of Malaysia in 1957. Today, the population of the state of Penang (which, in addition to the island, also includes a slice of the mainland) totals about 1.75 million; George Town's population is about 738,000, primarily ethnic Chinese, followed by Malays and Indians. The Peranakans, also known as Straits-born Chinese, represent a distinct subculture. In the past, Chinese traders married Malay women, and the blending of the cultures created hybrid customs, foods and dress. Penang's melting pot of cultures contributes to its fascinating food scene, as well as to its many places of worship, including Hindu temples, Muslim mosques and colonial-era Christian churches. Now, UNESCO recognition has brought a new influx of tourists. George Town's crumbling "shophouses" are being rehabbed into boutique hotels, while outside the city, shopping malls and luxury housing have sprung up along beaches. The cruise season is fairly well timed to coincide with Penang's drier months of January and February. The equatorial climate keeps it hot year-round (74 to 90 degrees) with fierce sun, so plan accordingly when heading ashore.

Kuala Lumpur is the modern capital of Malaysia, situated inland near the country's west coast. KL has a population of over one million and offers historical area, traditional temples and mosques, fine museums and all the modern amenities of a major cosmopolitan city.

In this important port, you may see numbers of the famous high-prowed Bugis schooners, the traditional trading vessels of the archipelago. They carry timber, cement and other goods from Sumatra and Kalimantan. From the port, it’s possible to explore Bali’s natural attractions including the tropical birds and reef fishes at Bali Barat National Park, or the mangrove and monsoon forests of Menjangan Island. Bali’s old capital of Singaraja retains much of its Dutch colonial charms, while traditional villages like Munduk in the highlands, Sawan, where traditional gamelan musical instruments are produced, and Simbaran offer insights into the timeless Balinese culture.

Bali is a small island -- measuring just 153 kilometres wide by 112 kilometres long -- but it offers a variety of landscapes and a wealth of experiences to appeal to many tastes. While rampant development over the past 40 years has seen this once quiet rice-growing and fishing community become Indonesia's tourism success story, attracting around 3.2 million visitors a year, there are still many paddy fields and pockets of traditional Balinese life to explore, as well as secluded beaches. Known as the Island of the Gods, Bali has more than 10,000 temples, most of which host at least two festivals every year. Despite the tourism that has spawned hundreds of hotels and thousands of restaurants and bars, the island's inhabitants remain deeply religious, with 84 percent of its almost four million residents practising their own distinct brand of Hinduism. Tiny offerings called canang sari (flowers and sometimes sweets in a palm leaf tray) are made every day to the gods and are found everywhere, even on the beach and on footpaths, while statues of gods and sacred animals adorn every street. Southern Bali is the most developed especially the budget beach resort of Kuta and its more sophisticated northern neighbour Seminyak. The high-end tourist enclaves of Jimbaran and Nusa Dua are just a few kilometres south of Kuta. The artists' hub of Ubud in central Bali, known for its many galleries and artisan workshops is, in fact, a collection of 14 separate villages, often separated by rice terraces. Dance is central to the Balinese culture along with the music of the gamelan -- an ensemble of percussion instruments much like xylophones -- and drums. For an authentic slice of Balinese life, it's best to head to the regions to the north and east of Ubud, where folks live in organised communal villages and still wear traditional dress such, as kebayas (traditional Indonesian blouses) and sarongs, and where there are many opportunities to see women carrying baskets of flowers and fruit on their heads to the temple. Another ceremony likely to be encountered in rural areas is the cremation procession where a huge bamboo funeral pyre fashioned in the shape of a bull is carried through the streets. Two areas where culture and tourism combine beautifully are cuisine and massage. The Balinese give the best massages, be they on the beach or in a luxurious spa, while cooking schools, many of which are in private homes, have also sprung up across the island.

The beautiful Indonesian island of Lombok lies to the east of its more famous neighbour, Bali. Repeat visitors -- and there are many -- rave about the gentler pace on Lombok, a reminder of how Bali was 20 years ago.

In its own way, Singapore is an oasis in Southeast Asia. It enjoys a low crime rate, and its infrastructure -- from road and mass-transit systems to a state-of-the-art airport at Changi -- is highly sophisticated. The city also is clean -- so much so that, for years, people were forbidden by law to chew gum in its streets, and eating on the subway can result in a heavy fine. This modern and dynamic destination -- which ranks either as a pro or a con, depending on your sensibilities -- is to cities what Disney is to theme parks.

Technically a city-state, Singapore, connected with manmade bridges to Malaysia, is made up of the main island and more than 60 surrounding islets. The mainland spans 42 kilometres east to west and 23 kilometres north to south. In the north, it shares a border with Malaysia; in the south, islands belonging to Indonesia can be visited via a short ferry ride. Singapore is located just north of the equator and is sultry, tropical and humid year-round.

Singapore is one of the world's biggest banking and transportation hubs. It's one of the most popular stopovers for folks travelling between Europe and Australia. Yet, Singapore is among the 20 smallest nations in the world -- though with 5.7 million people it's also the second-most densely populated country. Despite busy streets, shopping areas and public transportation, it normally does not feel as crowded as large U.S. city centres. Its modern design helps eliminate any feeling of congestion.

Like Hong Kong, Singapore is a city with great cultural diversity, well-developed infrastructure and a very cosmopolitan feeling. Popular with cruise lines for day-long port calls, as well as embarkation, Singapore is easily navigable, with most tourist attractions concentrated in three areas: Orchard Road, the colonial district and Sentosa.