aegean shores to istanbul

Named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom, Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world -- built around its namesake deity's temple, the Parthenon, which still stands today. But Athens feels far from an ancient city. While it has done an excellent job at preserving sites like the Acropolis (where the Parthenon is located) and Greek Orthodox churches, it has evolved into a hip and modern metropolis and homeport for ships sailing the Greek Islands. The city's recently overhauled Metro system also provides a cheap, safe and easy way to get around for sightseeing if you have extra time before or after your cruise. Aside from major landmarks, even once-dingy neighbourhoods like Plaka and Thissio have been restored, boasting fresh pastel-coloured painted facades and chic restaurants, bars and shops. Syntagma Square -- Athens' central square -- also has been reborn as a tree-filled haven from which to take in the city's gorgeous neoclassical Parliament building and catch the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. (Yes, that means you get to watch those men in frilly skirts, elaborate waistcoats and bobbled shoes do their high-kicking thing.) Athens, once (in some parts, still) one of the most frenetic and traffic-polluted cities in the world, now owns a real buzz and is well worth spending a few days in if your cruise starts or ends there.

Overlooked by mountains and medieval fortresses, Nafplion was once capital of Greece. Today you'll find the charming streets and neoclassical buildings of the Old Town, Bourtzi Fortress, built on a rocky island in the harbour, and dramatic views of the Argolic Gulf from Palamidi Fortress.  

Paros is a Greek island in the Aegean Sea, about halfway between Mykonos and Santorini. Part of the Cyclades Islands, Paros shares territory with Mykonos but has avoided the same flocks of foreign tourists. This means that, while the water is just as sparkling, the buildings are just as iconic, and the shopping and dining rival those on any other island, there are fewer people competing for space on the cobblestone streets. Home to more than a dozen notable villages, Paros is much less a sleepy island than a hub for holidaymakers or a jumping-off point to nearby islands like celebrity haven Antiparos or hidden gem Naxos. Cruisers who are lucky enough to visit Paros can strike out on a ferry adventure or stay and wander the maze of boutiques, gelato shops and cozy cafes in the capital, Parikia, where ships tender.

For people who have been there, done that with Mykonos and Santorini, a stop at the Greek island of Skiathos is a welcome change. The Aegean island, located just 30 miles or so from the mainland, is still touristy; the jet set made it a playground in the 1960s. But once you get to one of the island's many beaches -- there are 60 to 70 along a 25-mile coast -- you'll see why it remains a popular spot for holidays. Only smaller ships stop in Skiathos, and even then, cruise ships tender to shore. The call is usually billed as a beach day, but if you're avoiding the sun, wander around Skiathos Town for some shopping or get a drink at one of the many tavernas set up near the port. The people-watching is fabulous.

Few cruise ships call at Volos, though it is the third largest port in Greece. When you disembark, you'll see the cranes and shipping containers of an industrial port, rather than shops, ATM's and other passenger necessities. But don't be put off. Once you get away from the docks, you'll find that this dynamic city -- which lies between the wooded slopes of Mount Pelion and the Gulf of Pagasitikos, 326 km from Athens and 215 km from Thessaloniki -- offers plenty to do on a day ashore.

Downtown Volos is a conveniently short shuttle bus ride from your arrival point. You'll find interesting museums and churches, an array of shops, and a pretty, yacht-lined waterfront with plenty of al fresco restaurants serving traditional Greek dishes. Do as the locals do, and take a volta-- a leisurely stroll -- after your meal to walk off dinner along the quayside. In the surrounding areas, picturesque mountain villages offer scenic views and local products, while centuries-old monasteries perch atop rocky outcroppings. And, if that doesn't appeal, you can always head to a nearby beach for a relaxing day in the sun.

Nearly 20 years ago when we first sailed to Kuşadası, our gulet, a traditional Turkish sailing vessel, docked in a modest marina across from a row of open-air shops. We came to explore nearby Ephesus, one of the Mediterranean's most impressive ancient sites whose ruins detail life in the once-powerful Greek and later Roman city. Upon returning to Kuşadası, our guide herded us into what he swore was "the best carpet shop in Turkey." In between sips of thick Turkish coffee, we haggled with the owner, eventually settling on a blue Hereke, which we stowed in the yacht before dining at the simple dockside eatery.

Remarkably, our rug's much the same, but everything else has changed. Now the former seaside village's population hovers around 50,000, streets bustle with tourists, rug shops bloom in high-rise buildings, and an air-conditioned shopping mall with sleek jewellery stores and European fashion boutiques anchors the modern port.

What Kuşadası lacks in charm it makes up for in locale. At Ephesus, about nine miles from town, you'll travel back thousands of years. The Terrace Houses, now open to the public, make the centuries-old city even more enthralling.

Despite Kuşadası's crowds, you can still find an outdoor cafe to sip Turkish wine, savour just-caught fish and enjoy the sea breezes.

A geographic and metaphoric melding of East and West, Istanbul is the world's only city covering two continents. The Bosporus runs through the centre; Europe lies to the west, Asia to the east.

For nearly 2,000 years, the ideally situated metropolis has been the keystone of some of the world's great empires, serving as the capital city for the Romans (under the name Constantinople, as noted by the informative "They Might Be Giants" tune), Byzantines and Ottomans.

Inside the sprawling city, the secular and the sacred mingle -- minarets with nightclubs and dusty prayer rugs with designer digs. The idea of Istanbul as a collision between East and West reveals itself immediately, with monumental churches cum mosques (the Hagia Sophia), Roman ruins (the Hippodrome, where horse and chariot races were held in Roman times) and unadulterated symbols of consumerism (the Grand Bazaar with its thousands of shops).

Even if these iconic attractions are what draw many of its tourists to this vast (second only in size to Shanghai) city of 17 million inhabitants, visitors, dutifully plodding through them, may easily miss what makes this city one of the world's most vibrant right now.

Increasingly prosperous, Istanbul has exciting neighbourhoods, upscale shops (not just the usual international brands like Prada but also fashion designs by Turkish clothiers) and a thriving restaurant scene that ranges from classic fare to newer, Mediterranean-infused interpretations of local standards. Its Museum of Modern Art -- handily located pierside, where ships dock -- is new and offers both rotating internationally-minded exhibitions and works from Turkish artists.

Istanbul is increasingly popular as a port of embarkation (or disembarkation) for a range of itineraries, from the Black Sea and Eastern Mediterranean Greek Isles trips to the migration, twice a year, of ships between Europe and Asia. You can find as many as six ships a day docking there. This noisy place, in which the magical call to prayer several times a day manages to overcome the sound of honking cars, is a great place to add a pre- or post-cruise stay.