greek & adriatic journey

Named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom, Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world -- built around its namesake deity's temple, the Parthenon, which still stands today. But Athens feels far from an ancient city. While it has done an excellent job at preserving sites like the Acropolis (where the Parthenon is located) and Greek Orthodox churches, it has evolved into a hip and modern metropolis and homeport for ships sailing the Greek Islands. The city's recently overhauled Metro system also provides a cheap, safe and easy way to get around for sightseeing if you have extra time before or after your cruise. Aside from major landmarks, even once-dingy neighbourhoods like Plaka and Thissio have been restored, boasting fresh pastel-coloured painted facades and chic restaurants, bars and shops. Syntagma Square -- Athens' central square -- also has been reborn as a tree-filled haven from which to take in the city's gorgeous neoclassical Parliament building and catch the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. (Yes, that means you get to watch those men in frilly skirts, elaborate waistcoats and bobbled shoes do their high-kicking thing.) Athens, once (in some parts, still) one of the most frenetic and traffic-polluted cities in the world, now owns a real buzz and is well worth spending a few days in if your cruise starts or ends there.

Paros is a Greek island in the Aegean Sea, about halfway between Mykonos and Santorini. Part of the Cyclades Islands, Paros shares territory with Mykonos but has avoided the same flocks of foreign tourists. This means that, while the water is just as sparkling, the buildings are just as iconic, and the shopping and dining rival those on any other island, there are fewer people competing for space on the cobblestone streets. Home to more than a dozen notable villages, Paros is much less a sleepy island than a hub for holidaymakers or a jumping-off point to nearby islands like celebrity haven Antiparos or hidden gem Naxos. Cruisers who are lucky enough to visit Paros can strike out on a ferry adventure or stay and wander the maze of boutiques, gelato shops and cozy cafes in the capital, Parikia, where ships tender.

Nearly 20 years ago when we first sailed to Kuşadası, our gulet, a traditional Turkish sailing vessel, docked in a modest marina across from a row of open-air shops. We came to explore nearby Ephesus, one of the Mediterranean's most impressive ancient sites whose ruins detail life in the once-powerful Greek and later Roman city. Upon returning to Kuşadası, our guide herded us into what he swore was "the best carpet shop in Turkey." In between sips of thick Turkish coffee, we haggled with the owner, eventually settling on a blue Hereke, which we stowed in the yacht before dining at the simple dockside eatery.

Remarkably, our rug's much the same, but everything else has changed. Now the former seaside village's population hovers around 50,000, streets bustle with tourists, rug shops bloom in high-rise buildings, and an air-conditioned shopping mall with sleek jewellery stores and European fashion boutiques anchors the modern port.

What Kuşadası lacks in charm it makes up for in locale. At Ephesus, about nine miles from town, you'll travel back thousands of years. The Terrace Houses, now open to the public, make the centuries-old city even more enthralling.

Despite Kuşadası's crowds, you can still find an outdoor cafe to sip Turkish wine, savour just-caught fish and enjoy the sea breezes.

Sailing into the harbor of Syros, you might not feel like you're in Greece. The island's port city could easily pass for a coastal town on the French Riviera or Italy's Amalfi Coast. That's because immigrants who came to Syros from France, Italy, Germany and other parts of Greece between the early to mid-1800s collectively influenced the architecture, which consists mostly of multistory stone buildings with arches and pops of pastels. The heart of Syros' port city -- Ermoupoli, which also happens to be the capital -- is Miaouli Square. Visitors to the square will be awed by its main attraction, the grand Town Hall, which not only serves as the island's political center, but also the archeological museum. Adjacent to the square are various cafes and shops, as well as a statue of Andreas Miaoulis, an admiral from the Greek War of Independence. The shops in Ermoupoli sell mostly goods handmade or manufactured in Greece, with lots of unique jewelry, handbags, clothes and cookware. Outside the port city, Syros continues to offer a taste of authentic Greece at its seaside villages with quaint restaurants and beaches. Aside from only a few small cruise lines, Syros is mostly visited by other Greeks, so it doesn't feel crowded with tourists like more popular islands Mykonos and Santorini.

Dubrovnik is a great walking city for lovers of culture and history, with centuries-old monasteries, churches, synagogues and even one of the oldest operating pharmacies in Europe. But, if you're looking for a day of relaxation between busy tours in marquee cities, it's also a gorgeous spot to simply sit and watch the world go by amid red-roofed stone buildings and the sparkling, aqua Adriatic Sea.

The medieval-era Old Town is a walled city, and from above -- you can walk the 1.3-mile stretch some 80 feet above ground level for spectacular views -- it is reminiscent of Venice, just on a smaller scale (and with marble alleyways instead of canals). Like the Italian city, which lies just to the northwest, Old Town Dubrovnik is free of vehicular traffic and dotted with Renaissance churches and fountains, with a rich history as a trading port. In lieu of canals, you'll find narrow, cobblestone streets where pedestrians stroll from shop to shop, dine and drink at alfresco cafes and soak up the sun.

Dubrovnik is nestled in the southwestern corner of Croatia, a boomerang-shaped country directly across the Adriatic Sea from Italy's east coast, under which lies Bosnia and Herzegovina. The atmosphere is light and welcoming, due in no small part to the city's gorgeous setting on the Dalmatian Coast, which can be appreciated on one of the many boat tours offered from the Old Town harbour. Nearby beaches are also accessible; tours further inland include country bike rides and wine-tasting.

The port is a mainstay on Eastern Mediterranean cruise itineraries, sprinkled among greatest-hits stops like Athens, Venice and so many Greek Isles. Most Eastern Mediterranean cruises set sail from spring through fall, though winter cruising is gaining popularity.

The glittering coastline of Croatia -- known as the Dalmatian Coast -- is rapidly being revealed as one of 21st-century travel's greatest treasures. Many cruisers know the iconic town of Dubrovnik, but fewer realize just how many equally stunning and less crowded ports the magical Dalmation Coast region has to offer. One such spot is Hvar town, on the island of the same name. Overlooking a large, very beautiful bay -- and an archipelago of smaller islands bearing its name -- Hvar's "modern" history starts in the 12th century when it was a key base for the Venetians' Adriatic fleet. They retained the town and developed it in their own inimitable style until the 18th century. You'll see that influence everywhere, from the grand square at the heart of the town to its ancient arsenal, which once prepared galleons for trade or war, and the fortifications which overlook the harbour. Present-day Hvar is a delightful place, increasingly popular but still charmingly uncommercialized, an island that has kept its soul and style. You'll see it in the boutiques and bustling cafes around St. Stephen's Square and in the smart but affordable restaurants that line the waterfront. Cruise passengers who visit for one day -- and have to tender from their ships to do that -- will probably want to spend their precious time ashore simply exploring the meandering alleys and glittering waterfront of Hvar town, particularly if this is their first visit. But if you've been to Croatia more than once, plan a taxi or a self-drive tour of the island. Its fragrant, lavender-and-rosemary smothered interior and its oldest settlement, Stari Grad, are well worth exploring. Another good choice: a boat trip around the pine-covered Pakleni Islands, where you can swim in sparkling seas and feast on their bounty at beachfront restaurants.

Of all the cities in the world, only Paris comes remotely close to matching Venice in terms of sheer beauty and romance. You've seen it in photos and films, but there's no substitute for the reality -- the shimmering Grand Canal, the gondolas slipping down watery alleyways, the elegant palazzos emerging straight from the sea. 

Venice once ruled the Mediterranean as a shipping power, amassing vast wealth and producing some of Europe's greatest artistic and cultural treasures. But, over the centuries, Venice has declined a bit and now has less than half the population it had at its peak. What remains of its former grandeur -- the crumbling palaces, the sumptuous art in its museums and churches, the fantastic rituals of Carnevale -- makes Venice a living tribute to the past. 

Aside from a number of charming squares, such as the famous Piazza San Marco, Venice is mostly composed of a warren of narrow canals and streets spread over more than 100 islands. These tangled passageways are an attraction among themselves. There are few better cities to simply get lost in, particularly if you want to escape the tourist hordes that clog the main arteries around San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. 

So once you've seen the major sights, fold up your map, and set off on foot. You'll discover pretty, residential neighborhoods with colorful flowerboxes in the windows and clean laundry billowing in the breeze. You'll discover tiny trattorias where the locals enjoy the catch of the day. And, away from the vaporetti (water taxis) and motorboat traffic on the Grand Canal, you'll discover one more pleasure of this place, aptly dubbed La Serenissima -- the unexpected quiet of a city without cars.