shores of the adriatic | croatia & italy with dubrovnik, split & venice

The first thing that strikes you on arrival in Split, Croatia, is how very busy it is. The quayside is lined with local ferry boats -- some wood-trimmed and charmingly old fashioned, with room for no more than about 12 passengers -- and there are hordes of young backpackers embarking or disembarking as they make their way around one of Europe's most beautiful regions. Bigger ferries and cruise ships come into the main terminal, and from there it's a short but uphill walk to the Old Town with its market and the world-famous jewel that lies at Split's heart, the magnificent Palace of Diocletian. En route you'll encounter plenty of those gap-year kids, some toting backpacks or wheeling cases, others sitting -- rapt in young love -- on the many wooden, sea-facing benches that line the harbour front. Split's youthful buzz arises partly from its status as a university town and partly from its position as a jumping-off point for exploring Dalmatia's lovely coast and islands. So it's hardly surprising that it has such a young population -- and the affordable bars and lively nightlife that go with it. But older travellers arriving by cruise ship should not feel left out, for there is much to enjoy in this delightful port, from elegant pastel-coloured tea shops and great restaurants to even better shops. There's also a museum featuring the works of Ivan Mestrovic, one of Croatia's greatest sculptors. And, of course, there's that magnificent palace, built by a Roman emperor around 2,000 years ago.
  

Of all the cities in the world, only Paris comes remotely close to matching Venice in terms of sheer beauty and romance. You've seen it in photos and films, but there's no substitute for the reality -- the shimmering Grand Canal, the gondolas slipping down watery alleyways, the elegant palazzos emerging straight from the sea.

Venice once ruled the Mediterranean as a shipping power, amassing vast wealth and producing some of Europe's greatest artistic and cultural treasures. But, over the centuries, Venice has declined a bit and now has less than half the population it had at its peak. What remains of its former grandeur -- the crumbling palaces, the sumptuous art in its museums and churches, the fantastic rituals of Carnevale -- makes Venice a living tribute to the past.

Aside from a number of charming squares, such as the famous Piazza San Marco, Venice is mostly composed of a warren of narrow canals and streets spread over more than 100 islands. These tangled passageways are an attraction among themselves. There are few better cities to simply get lost in, particularly if you want to escape the tourist hordes that clog the main arteries around San Marco and the Rialto Bridge.

So once you've seen the major sights, fold up your map, and set off on foot. You'll discover pretty, residential neighborhoods with colorful flowerboxes in the windows and clean laundry billowing in the breeze. You'll discover tiny trattorias where the locals enjoy the catch of the day. And, away from the vaporetti (water taxis) and motorboat traffic on the Grand Canal, you'll discover one more pleasure of this place, aptly dubbed La Serenissima -- the unexpected quiet of a city without cars.

Dubrovnik is a great walking city for lovers of culture and history, with centuries-old monasteries, churches, synagogues and even one of the oldest operating pharmacies in Europe. But, if you're looking for a day of relaxation between busy tours in marquee cities, it's also a gorgeous spot to simply sit and watch the world go by amid red-roofed stone buildings and the sparkling, aqua Adriatic Sea.

The medieval-era Old Town is a walled city, and from above -- you can walk the 1.3-mile stretch some 80 feet above ground level for spectacular views -- it is reminiscent of Venice, just on a smaller scale (and with marble alleyways instead of canals). Like the Italian city, which lies just to the northwest, Old Town Dubrovnik is free of vehicular traffic and dotted with Renaissance churches and fountains, with a rich history as a trading port. In lieu of canals, you'll find narrow, cobblestone streets where pedestrians stroll from shop to shop, dine and drink at alfresco cafes and soak up the sun.

Dubrovnik is nestled in the southwestern corner of Croatia, a boomerang-shaped country directly across the Adriatic Sea from Italy's east coast, under which lies Bosnia and Herzegovina. The atmosphere is light and welcoming, due in no small part to the city's gorgeous setting on the Dalmatian Coast, which can be appreciated on one of the many boat tours offered from the Old Town harbour. Nearby beaches are also accessible; tours further inland include country bike rides and wine-tasting.

The port is a mainstay on Eastern Mediterranean cruise itineraries, sprinkled among greatest-hits stops like Athens, Venice and so many Greek Isles. Most Eastern Mediterranean cruises set sail from spring through fall, though winter cruising is gaining popularity.

Dream up a wish list of everything you'd want from a Greek holiday: talcum-soft beaches, spectacular subtropical forests, tasty cuisine and a beautiful, historic Old Town to explore. Add wall-to-wall sunshine, and you'll find Corfu ticks pretty much every box.

This small Ionian island (only 40 miles long and 20 wide) is a highlight of many Mediterranean cruise itineraries, and it's not hard to see why. Corfu (known to the local Corfiots as Kerkyra) is one of Greece's most verdant and picturesque islands.

Its lush interior, well-watered by winter rains and smothered in fragrant pine forests and dense olive groves, is studded with charmingly old-fashioned rural villages, where the sleepy routine is occasionally enlivened by summer religious festivals (panegyria).

At such times, tempting food and craft stalls appear, a fairground atmosphere prevails and brass bands, known locally (and rather confusingly) as philharmonic orchestras, toot out foot-tapping tunes. The main festivals take place in July and August and, of course, over Easter. And if religion's not your thing, perhaps the two Corfu beer festivals, in July and October, will grab your attention.

Most time-strapped cruise visitors confine their visits to exploring Corfu Town on the island's east coast, and this delightful medieval enclave, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, certainly deserves the attention. You'll find historic fortresses and the vast Spianada Square (esplanade), which is the largest public square in the Balkans, as well as intriguing alleyways and spectacular statues and fountains (not to mention excellent shops and lively restaurants).

If your cruise schedule allows, or you've visited Corfu Town before, you'll find it very rewarding to venture farther afield. In its long history, Corfu has "belonged" to many invaders -- Byzantines, Venetians, France, Russia and Britain -- before returning to Greek rule in 1864, and all have left their cultural stamp. You'll see it in the esplanade's cricket pitch and the island's Byzantine churches, Italianate mansions and the elegant French Liston arcade.

It all blends into the fascinating jumble, which makes Corfu one of the best-known and best-loved islands of the Ionian archipelago.

You'll be rewarded if you set your alarm for an early start when arriving in Kotor. Part of the fun is entering the Bay of Kotor and gliding for an hour through the mountains on a 17-mile waterway known as Europe's southernmost fjord. It's not actually a fjord -- fjords are caused by glacial activity, and the Bay of Kotor has been carved by a river running from the interior to the Adriatic Sea. Still, the views are fjord-like, with mountains rising on both sides of a long, thin bay that leads to the old walled town of Kotor. Cruise ships often begin the bay journey as early as 6:15 a.m. for an 8 a.m. arrival. Its fortified entrance to the sea made the Old City of Kotor an ancient trade center. Now it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Montenegro's most famous town. The Old City is a well-preserved collection of buildings, churches, squares and stone streets that date to the Middle Ages. The car-free, walled town is just across the street from the city's cruise ship dock. Kotor is full of shops and little restaurants. Pick a square, order a coffee and gaze at churches from the 12th to 15th centuries. Looking for more great views? Put on your walking shoes for a hike. The city walls climb the mountain behind the town, and it's about 90 minutes up to the fortress at the crown (at 853 feet) and back. If your ship is in port for just a few hours, you may want to concentrate only on exploring the Old City. If you have all day, consider excursions into the mountains for sightseeing and stops at seaside resorts on the Adriatic.

Brindisi is an ancient port and it remains an important transportation hub on Italy's east coast. The town itself is rather small though visitors can fill a few hours exploring on foot. There are also a number of beautiful sandy beaches on which to spend the day swimming and sunning. --By Shayne Thompson, Cruise Critic contributor

The first thing that strikes you on arrival in Split, Croatia, is how very busy it is. The quayside is lined with local ferry boats -- some wood-trimmed and charmingly old fashioned, with room for no more than about 12 passengers -- and there are hordes of young backpackers embarking or disembarking as they make their way around one of Europe's most beautiful regions. Bigger ferries and cruise ships come into the main terminal, and from there it's a short but uphill walk to the Old Town with its market and the world-famous jewel that lies at Split's heart, the magnificent Palace of Diocletian. En route you'll encounter plenty of those gap-year kids, some toting backpacks or wheeling cases, others sitting -- rapt in young love -- on the many wooden, sea-facing benches that line the harbour front. Split's youthful buzz arises partly from its status as a university town and partly from its position as a jumping-off point for exploring Dalmatia's lovely coast and islands. So it's hardly surprising that it has such a young population -- and the affordable bars and lively nightlife that go with it. But older travellers arriving by cruise ship should not feel left out, for there is much to enjoy in this delightful port, from elegant pastel-coloured tea shops and great restaurants to even better shops. There's also a museum featuring the works of Ivan Mestrovic, one of Croatia's greatest sculptors. And, of course, there's that magnificent palace, built by a Roman emperor around 2,000 years ago.