mediterranean to the middle east | a grand voyage from barcelona to dubai

The capital of Spain's Catalonia region is one of the country's -- maybe even Europe's -- most beautiful and vibrant places. A city of contrasts, it is like no other in Spain; this is most evident in its architecture, a marriage of Gothic spikes and modern curves. (One name to keep an eye out for is Antoni Gaudi, Barcelona's most famous architect.) Barcelona is also a city of distinct neighbourhoods. The old city -- Ciutat Vella -- is the heart of everything, with museums, shopping and cafes. Then there's the port area, Port Vell, which features bars, restaurants, shops, an IMAX theatre and the largest aquarium in Europe. (Port Vell is different from the working port area where cruise ships dock, but it's not too far away.) Enchanting and ancient, the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) is the centre of the old city and brings together the best of Barcelona in a series of narrow streets, shops, cafes and magical corridors. One of Barcelona's best attributes is that while it seems large and spread out, its neighbourhoods are surprisingly walkable and easily accessible by bus, metro or even on foot (in comfortable shoes). Don't miss a stroll along Las Ramblas, replete with produce and flower stands, a historic opera house and maybe even a glimpse of Marilyn Monroe calling to you from the balcony of the Erotica Museum. Just be sure to rest your feet now and then over a few plates of tapas (which are meant to be shared, but we won't tell if you don't) and an ice-cold pitcher of sangria or a bottle of cava, the region's sparkling wine.

Marseille, gateway to Provence, is France's largest port and second largest city, with a vast history stretching back more than 2,000 years to its foundation by the Greeks in the 6th century BC. While much of the city is urban sprawl, it has a spectacular setting between dramatic limestone hills and the Mediterranean, and the once-industrial streets now feature stylish shops and cutting-edge art galleries, thanks to investment from its role as European Capital of Culture 2013. Most cruisers make a beeline for Le Vieux Port, a buzzing, picturesque harbour lined with boutiques, restaurants and cafes. This district attracts an eclectic crowd, from local fishermen to millionaires venturing ashore from James Bond-style mega-yachts. All gather to soak up Le Vieux Port's charming atmosphere, browse its bustling markets and tuck into a bowl of Marseille's classic signature dish, bouillabaisse (a rich fish stew).

Sometimes, cities are lucky enough to reinvent themselves. Genoa, given short shrift in travel guides 20 years ago, has undergone a striking renaissance since 1992, when it hosted an international expo to commemorate the 500-year anniversary of the discovery of the New World. Nowhere is that benefit more evident than at Porto Antico, the old port close to the marine terminal, where many of today's cruise ships now dock. What once was a seedy waterfront on Northern Italy's Mediterranean is now a charming blend of old and new structures, featuring cafes, shops, a movie complex, a maritime museum, a spectacular play and cultural center for kids and, most importantly, the largest aquarium in Europe. From a distance, the Genoa cityscape -- climbing up a steep, green hillside from the Ligurian sea -- is awash in Mediterranean color: ochre, pink and red. It's a big town with more than 600,000 people, but it has a small-town feel and layout that make it imminently walkable. In fact, Genoa's foremost calling cards -- its historic center; the Piazza de Ferrari, where the Opera and Palace of the Doges are located; the chic shopping avenue, Via XX Settembre; and the largely pedestrian-only streets that hug the Cathedral of San Lorenzo -- are all within a 10- to 20-minute walk of Porto Antico. Genoa, or Genova in Italian, has a rich history dating back to ancient times, but it's probably best known for Christopher Columbus, its most famous native celebrity. It has long been associated with the arts, and in 2004 the European Union designated Genoa as a European Capital of Culture. In 2006, a mid-16th century district on Via Garibaldi that houses an architecturally important ensemble of Renaissance and Baroque palaces was included on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Genoa typically serves as a port of embarkation or disembarkation, so it isn't often given high priority as a shore excursion. Our best advice? Enjoy a day here before or after your cruise. It's worth it.

The capital city in the land of Leonardo, Michelangelo and the popes is today a living museum with gorgeous artwork, amazing architecture and inspiring ancient sites. At the same time, it's alive and vibrant in a 21st-century way. It's an unforgettable city to visit, and we'll warn you right now that once you've experienced it, you'll want to go back for more.

One of our favorite things to do there is walk and ogle. On a recent visit, we took one day to do the route from Vatican City and St. Peter's Basilica -- with its jaw-dropping art, statuary, and religious significance -- to Via del Corso, where our quest for the latest Italian fashions was more than fulfilled amidst the well-dressed crowd of Roman shoppers. The next day, we went on an ancient history quest past ruins and columns, traversing the same streets Julius Caesar strode (and rode) to the Colosseum, where gladiators once battled. Walking on, we were awed by the Pantheon, the well-preserved ancient symbol of Rome and now a great hangout spot.

First-time visitors, many envisioning Rome as big and congested, will be surprised by the scenic layout, with its famous seven hills and the Tiber River running through the city. (Cleopatra famously made her grand entrance from the river.) And the senses may be shocked by the general energy, hustle and bustle. With cars, taxis and scooters roaring here and there, crossing the street can be a challenge. (Don't worry; there are quiet piazzas aplenty with lovely cafes where you can get away from it all and unwind.)

The food is, of course, wonderful -- we can't eat enough pasta -- and the spirit of la dolce vita (the good life) abounds. Whenever we do such a quest in Rome, we do regular gelato stops (try the yummy pine nut flavor) or coffee breaks. And the shopping scene serves up Prada, Gucci, Armani and more. (High style can be found in more affordable brands like Furla, as well.) What could be better than that?

No question, Rome has one of the world's most important collections of once-in-a-lifetime sights to see, including St. Peter's Basilica and the Sistine Chapel, the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Forum and on and on and on. And for those historic monuments alone, the city is worth a visit.

But if you're on an itinerary where Rome is just a port of call for the day, you won't see everything. Either resign yourself to that fact, or book a tour that will at least drive you by the main sights. Be aware the port for Rome, Civitavecchia, is about 1.5 to 2 hours from the city. (There is decent train service.) If you're beginning or ending your cruise there, plan to stay at least a couple of nights to explore the Eternal City; it's likely to steal a piece of your heart. Make sure to drop a coin in Trevi Fountain, which is said to assure you'll come back again.

Sailing into Valletta, Malta, is akin to stepping into the pages of a J.R.R. Tolkien fantasy; once you are in the protected harbour, it feels as though modern civilization has disappeared. Oh, you can see a car or two driving on the winding streets amid the limestone battlements, crenelated castles and hillside structures, but they seem terribly out of place and unexpected. Never mind that Malta, which owns 7,000 years of intriguing history, is fully modernized and contemporary. What you see when entering Valletta Harbour are the formidable defensive stone battlements of forts pockmarked by war guarding the strategic waterway. Cream-colored buildings and ancient church steeples grow out of the twisting streets and hillsides. In the bay and channels, Malta's colourful luzzo boats, fishing craft resembling an elf's shoe, ply the waters in the wake of modern giant cruise ships and tankers. Valletta was built by the Knights of St. John as a place to take care of wounded soldiers and pilgrims during the Crusades in the 16th century. Its unique landscape and ancient buildings have appeared in films such as "Troy," "Gladiator," "Captain Phillips" and "World War Z." This tiny Mediterranean country is part of an archipelago of five islands, only three of which are inhabited. Cruise ships visit the island of Malta and the port of Valletta (designed by a colleague of Michelangelo). Malta has been inhabited since 5000 B.C. and was colonized by the Phoenicians in 1000 B.C. Then, the islands went in turn to the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and the Spanish, who handed them over to the Knights of the Order of St. John in a "perpetual lease" in 1533; this lasted until Napoleon seized control in 1798. The Maltese did not like the French, however, and rebelled by seeking aid from Great Britain; Malta became a British protectorate in 1800 and a part of the British Empire in 1814. Later, it shook off the British, as well, and was granted independence in 1964. Since 1974, Malta is a republic under the British Commonwealth. The influence of all of these cultures is evident in Malta, with the Roman period seemingly taking precedence.

Named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom, Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world -- built around its namesake deity's temple, the Parthenon, which still stands today. But Athens feels far from an ancient city. While it has done an excellent job at preserving sites like the Acropolis (where the Parthenon is located) and Greek Orthodox churches, it has evolved into a hip and modern metropolis and homeport for ships sailing the Greek Islands. The city's recently overhauled Metro system also provides a cheap, safe and easy way to get around for sightseeing if you have extra time before or after your cruise. Aside from major landmarks, even once-dingy neighbourhoods like Plaka and Thissio have been restored, boasting fresh pastel-coloured painted facades and chic restaurants, bars and shops. Syntagma Square -- Athens' central square -- also has been reborn as a tree-filled haven from which to take in the city's gorgeous neoclassical Parliament building and catch the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. (Yes, that means you get to watch those men in frilly skirts, elaborate waistcoats and bobbled shoes do their high-kicking thing.) Athens, once (in some parts, still) one of the most frenetic and traffic-polluted cities in the world, now owns a real buzz and is well worth spending a few days in if your cruise starts or ends there.

Rhodes, with an average of 300 sunny days per year and mild temperatures in the winter, has been a popular tourist attraction for centuries. Located 12 miles off the coast of Turkey, it's the largest of Greece's 12 Dodecanese islands. Rhodes sits in the Aegean Sea, and its beautiful blue green waters reflect a tropical paradise. The island features 35 beaches and many cultural and historical attractions.

The view from the sea is spectacular as you sail into the port of Rhodes. It's one of the best preserved medieval towns in the world and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. The ship disembarks its passengers just outside of Old Town, a maze of cobblestone streets, flanked by historic buildings dating from the 14th century.

Between the city's sturdy walls, magnificent palaces, fascinating museums and ornate mosques line the narrow, atmospheric passageways and carefully planned squares. Souvenir shops, restaurants and boutiques are plentiful in Old Town.

The main attraction here is the Palace of the Grand Masters, built in the 14th century by the Knights of St. John. The structure survived an earthquake but was destroyed by an explosion in 1856; it was later restored by the Italians in the 1930's. Now a museum, the palace contains priceless mosaics, sculptures and exhibitions of medieval and ancient Rhodes civilizations.

But it is not just Old Town that attracts visitors to this beautiful island. The New Town, located across Mandraki Harbor from Old Town, contains a large marketplace, the Nea Agora, which contains a food court, gift shops, cafes and bars. New Town also offers many luxury hotels and beautiful beaches that attract vacationers who enjoy paragliding, windsurfing, swimming and sunbathing. A casino also is available for those who want to try their luck at games of chance.

Cruise ships offer half-day tours that include Old Town sites and full-day tours that include jeep tours of the island and visits to the ancient city of Lindos with its cliffside acropolis, whitewashed houses and picturesque scenery. Guided tours and excursion boat tours are also available, but just walking around with a guidebook will be enough to enjoy this interesting and picturesque part of the world.

Limassol, the largest coastal town in Cyprus, sprawls around Akrotiri Bay, midway between Larnaca and Paphos and close to the southern foothills of the Troodos Mountains. It's the island's principal cruise port.

Cyprus is the kind of destination where you have to venture off the beaten track to uncover the true nature of the place. At first glance, Limassol is a low-rise, sun-baked, urban sprawl, slightly chaotic and architecturally uninspiring. Scratch the surface, particularly around the castle area, and you'll find a tangle of shady, pedestrianized streets in the medieval centre; ancient mosques alongside Greek Orthodox churches; and broad shopping boulevards, lined with boutiques that showcase up-and-coming designers. Its waterfront, still in the process of being developed, offers a sculpture park and lovely vistas of the bay. All in all, Limassol has, for years, been a pleasant -- if not exactly cutting-edge -- destination, in terms of style and cuisine.

Immediately outside the town are rolling hills, olive and citrus groves and tiny villages, where locals still use donkeys for transport. Limassol is at the heart of the island's wine-growing industry, and visitors will see dusty vineyards, clinging to the sun-bleached, sloping hills.

It might not otherwise feel old, but Limassol, which dates to at least 2000 B.C., is the gateway to sites of antiquity, such as Kourion, with its Greco-Roman Theatre, and, nearby, the Temple of Apollo. Also worth a look is Nicosia, the only capital city in the world to be divided by force (by Turkish and Greek Cypriots).

If you feel like a low-key day, you'll appreciate Limassol itself. Despite the city's busy urban setting, Limassol's 200,000 residents demonstrate a healthy respect for the work-life balance, spending time in coffee shops, strolling along the beach in the evenings and dining in large family groups in the many tavernas and restaurants. This attitude gives the town a holiday atmosphere, even in the spring and late autumn. The tourist season is long, with cruise ships calling from April or May up until early November. Limassol essentially exists in two parts. The main town is the closest area to the port, where you'll find, just inland, the medieval castle and the main shopping boulevards of Makarios III and Agiou Andreou. The beach stretches all the way from the waterfront to the far end of Akrotiri Bay, a narrow ribbon of development that has been dedicated mainly to four- and five-star hotels.

Limassol is ideally situated for cruise passengers, as it's in the middle of everything. The important archaeological sites of Kourion, Kolossi Castle and Limassol Castle are less than 30 minutes from the port. Day trips into the mountains and wine-growing areas are easily manageable. Paphos, an attractive UNESCO World Heritage site and major tourist centre, is less than an hour away -- thanks to efficient motorway links -- while the capital, Nicosia, is an hour inland to the northeast.

Visitors to Cyprus tend to remember the friendliness of its people. Everybody in the hospitality trade speaks English, and everybody -- from taxi drivers to taverna proprietors -- will engage visitors in conversation. People are not on the make here, although they're pretty entrepreneurial; they're just naturally and delightfully hospitable.

Cruising the Suez Canal is a truly unique experience, offering a fascinating glimpse into the history and engineering marvel of this vital waterway. As you glide through the clear blue waters, you'll witness the bustling activity of ships passing by, and marvel at the stunning landscapes of the Egyptian desert.

Cruising the Suez Canal is a truly unique experience, offering a fascinating glimpse into the history and engineering marvel of this vital waterway. As you glide through the clear blue waters, you'll witness the bustling activity of ships passing by, and marvel at the stunning landscapes of the Egyptian desert.

The problem with a lot of the ports featured on a typical Arabian Gulf cruise is that they're pretty similar. Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Bahrain, for example, are all shining skyscrapers and shopping malls, glittering temples to excess. But Muscat, the capital of Oman, stands for completely different values: tradition, history, restraint. Although the country is far from lagging economically, it is deeply conservative and has always placed an emphasis on careful, controlled development. So Muttrah, the old waterfront part of Muscat and the first view to greet cruise passengers, has been carefully preserved, presenting a blend of traditional architecture and rugged natural beauty that many visitors find enchanting.

Muscat couldn't be in a more beautiful setting. The old part of the town, hemmed in by terracotta-colored mountains, spans a graceful waterfront. Its corniche is flanked by a 16th-century hilltop fort at either end, remnants of the time the Portuguese occupied Oman, protecting their trade routes to the east. As well as the cruise ships, container ships and private yachts that moor there, old-fashioned wooden dhows (sailing ships) potter around the busy harbor. If your ship overnights, the sight of the mountains turning pink while the early-morning call to prayer echoes across the old rooftops is unforgettable.

Modern Muscat sprawls out behind the mountains, away from the sea, but for independent exploration, the old part of the city is easily walkable and safe; it's there that you'll find the winding alleys of the souk, or market. Beyond the city, there are tours into the mountains and wadis (dried-up riverbeds) for 4x4 rides along the coast to visit fishing villages or inland to explore some of the medieval forts.

Qatar's capital Doha is home to bazaars, historical sites and a photogenic waterfront promenade. Those traveling on Doha cruises in the Middle East might want to take shore excursions farther afield to the desert or the Pearl -- a nearby manmade resort island. View Arabic antiquities at Doha's Museum of Islamic Art or visit the antique shops and cafes in the city's ancient Souq Waqif market. Tourists to Doha should be aware of local customs, as Qatar is a Muslim country with conservative traditions. Women should pack headscarfs, and visitors may not bring alcohol into the country.

On busy Sheikh Zayed Road, the highway running through the sprawling metropolis of Dubai that connects the old city with its modern eye-catching skylines, a Ferrari whizzes past at 75 miles per hour. It's a police car, a sign that Dubai -- a city often compared to Las Vegas -- has flash to spare. The second-largest and most developed of the seven United Arab Emirates, Dubai has a well-deserved reputation as an oasis for cosmopolitan luxury travellers with money to burn. Yes, Dubai is a working port city on the Arabian Gulf, a hugely successful aviation hub with links between the West and Asia and, geographically speaking, only hours by car from places that, for most North Americans, are tucked away in the encyclopedia as distant and forbidden lands: Yemen and Saudi Arabia. But the city's most distinctive feature is its pursuit of all things over the top, from self-styled "seven-star" luxury hotels and shopping malls with ski resorts to man-made islands built in the shape of palm trees and continents -- and the fact that the skyline is now pierced by nearly 150 gleaming skyscrapers. As late as the 1950s, however, Dubai was a small-time trading and fishing port. (Pearl diving was a major industry until cultured versions came into vogue.) It's possible -- although it does take some work -- to find remnants of this uniquely Emirati history. A few savvy entrepreneurs are beginning to develop cultural tourism that highlights the emirate's Bedouin roots, as well as the melting pot that Dubai has become. Yet still, it's the modern trappings you'll notice first, from the ultrasophisticated Emirates aeroplanes that you no doubt arrived on to sleek Dubai International Airport to the fact that everyone speaks English. (You won't need to trot out Arabic here -- though attempting "shukran," for "thank you," is always appreciated.) Although North Americans are somewhat scarce, Dubai has long been discovered by the elite from Europe, Australia and Asia, who are magnetically drawn by its resorts, gorgeous beaches, sophisticated nightlife and duty-free shopping. New attractions are opening all the time, adding a cultural layer to the more frivolous activities. That being said, Dubai -- and the United Arab Emirates, in general -- is Muslim, and morality laws are alive and well. Public displays of affection are discouraged (no kissing your partner), and gay travellers have to be discreet, as homosexuality is illegal, although this should not present a problem if you're arriving by cruise ship as you won't be checking into a hotel). Alcohol is only served at hotels and restaurants with licenses, although nowadays, there are a great many of these, and many common prescription drugs are illegal. (Bring copies of your prescriptions from your doctor.) Although beachwear is appropriate at resorts, shorts and tank tops should not be worn around town; even some malls have a dress code. Pack long-sleeved tops, capris or long pants, and long skirts and dresses if you plan to visit mosques or do a lot of walking around. Despite its conservative stance on these cultural issues, Dubai remains a major port of embarkation (as well as the port of call) for cruise travellers on popular Middle East itineraries through the Arabian Gulf or around the Arabian Peninsula to the Red Sea and Suez Canal. Even if your cruise doesn't begin or end there, you're likely to have an overnight. The "season" runs from October through May and is particularly popular with European lines, such as Costa Cruises, MSC Cruises, P&O Cruises and AIDA Cruises. Royal Caribbean International and Celebrity Cruises also have a presence here all winter long. If you're looking for a view into the modern Middle East -- and want a guarantee that you'll have sunny, warm weather on your vacation -- Dubai is perhaps your best place to start.

On busy Sheikh Zayed Road, the highway running through the sprawling metropolis of Dubai that connects the old city with its modern eye-catching skylines, a Ferrari whizzes past at 75 miles per hour. It's a police car, a sign that Dubai -- a city often compared to Las Vegas -- has flash to spare. The second-largest and most developed of the seven United Arab Emirates, Dubai has a well-deserved reputation as an oasis for cosmopolitan luxury travellers with money to burn. Yes, Dubai is a working port city on the Arabian Gulf, a hugely successful aviation hub with links between the West and Asia and, geographically speaking, only hours by car from places that, for most North Americans, are tucked away in the encyclopedia as distant and forbidden lands: Yemen and Saudi Arabia. But the city's most distinctive feature is its pursuit of all things over the top, from self-styled "seven-star" luxury hotels and shopping malls with ski resorts to man-made islands built in the shape of palm trees and continents -- and the fact that the skyline is now pierced by nearly 150 gleaming skyscrapers. As late as the 1950s, however, Dubai was a small-time trading and fishing port. (Pearl diving was a major industry until cultured versions came into vogue.) It's possible -- although it does take some work -- to find remnants of this uniquely Emirati history. A few savvy entrepreneurs are beginning to develop cultural tourism that highlights the emirate's Bedouin roots, as well as the melting pot that Dubai has become. Yet still, it's the modern trappings you'll notice first, from the ultrasophisticated Emirates aeroplanes that you no doubt arrived on to sleek Dubai International Airport to the fact that everyone speaks English. (You won't need to trot out Arabic here -- though attempting "shukran," for "thank you," is always appreciated.) Although North Americans are somewhat scarce, Dubai has long been discovered by the elite from Europe, Australia and Asia, who are magnetically drawn by its resorts, gorgeous beaches, sophisticated nightlife and duty-free shopping. New attractions are opening all the time, adding a cultural layer to the more frivolous activities. That being said, Dubai -- and the United Arab Emirates, in general -- is Muslim, and morality laws are alive and well. Public displays of affection are discouraged (no kissing your partner), and gay travellers have to be discreet, as homosexuality is illegal, although this should not present a problem if you're arriving by cruise ship as you won't be checking into a hotel). Alcohol is only served at hotels and restaurants with licenses, although nowadays, there are a great many of these, and many common prescription drugs are illegal. (Bring copies of your prescriptions from your doctor.) Although beachwear is appropriate at resorts, shorts and tank tops should not be worn around town; even some malls have a dress code. Pack long-sleeved tops, capris or long pants, and long skirts and dresses if you plan to visit mosques or do a lot of walking around. Despite its conservative stance on these cultural issues, Dubai remains a major port of embarkation (as well as the port of call) for cruise travellers on popular Middle East itineraries through the Arabian Gulf or around the Arabian Peninsula to the Red Sea and Suez Canal. Even if your cruise doesn't begin or end there, you're likely to have an overnight. The "season" runs from October through May and is particularly popular with European lines, such as Costa Cruises, MSC Cruises, P&O Cruises and AIDA Cruises. Royal Caribbean International and Celebrity Cruises also have a presence here all winter long. If you're looking for a view into the modern Middle East -- and want a guarantee that you'll have sunny, warm weather on your vacation -- Dubai is perhaps your best place to start.