A Journey through Penguin Shores & Patagonian Legends

Day

Date

Arrival

Departure

11th Jan 2028 Tuesday

Buenos Aires

18:00

Buenos Aires is often referred to as "The Paris of South America," but it's so much more than that. The city features characteristics of great global cities like Paris, Vienna, Rome, Barcelona, Havana, San Juan, Miami and others. But Buenos Aires stands alone, a sprawling metropolis of more than 12 million people, located well below the equator (closer to Antarctica, in fact) in the upper-eastern quadrant of Argentina. Anyone who has seen the stage or movie version of "Evita" has witnessed the colorful history of the city. Buenos Aires (which, roughly translated, means "fresh air") was founded originally in 1536, but the Spaniards sent to colonize the mouth of the Rio de la Plata were forced away by the indigenous population. A second, more successful attempt was made in 1580, and it wasn't until the early 1800s that the city and then the country emancipated itself from the Spanish crown, becoming the Republic of Argentina. You might think that planning by the French, buildings by the Spanish and statuary by the Italians would lend a schizophrenic air to this sprawling capital. But the fact that the populace is a melting pot of European and South American cultures (half of Buenos Aires' citizens are of Italian descent) makes the city more open and cosmopolitan, celebrating differences and welcoming tourists from around the world. Though not as (in)famous as Rio's favelas, these shantytowns lack running water, electricity, basic sanitation and schooling and the authorities are trying to figure out how to incorporate them into the city. The country also wrestles with high inflation and unemployment. More than anywhere else in the country, Buenos Aires felt the effects of years of more than 2,000 percent inflation and that is still felt today. When the Argentine economy collapsed in 2001, the "Portenos" -- as the city's residents call themselves, in a reference to the city's origins as a port -- took to the streets demanding someone be held accountable. Others formed collectives to purchase and run their places of business. The flip side, of course, was that the devaluation of the Argentine peso made a visit to the city very affordable, and tourism thrived. Even today, most of the city's goods and services remain a tremendous bargain for visitors from Europe or North America. (Subway rides total 30 cents, and a steak main course costs around $15.) Hoteliers have gotten wise to this attractiveness, and accommodation prices have increased. However, the opening of more properties, particularly of the boutique variety, and the rise of Airbnb means there is plenty of competition, and good rates can be found. Compared to stays in other world-class cities, a trip to Buenos Aires is a bargain, and once you visit, you'll likely want to return. The city features numerous draws: architecture, acres and acres of woods and parks, fabulous meals of traditional grilled meats and hearty Argentine wines. Visitors also enjoy the Latin sizzle, the soul of the portenos and the genuine warmth and humor of the people. Bask in the camaraderie you feel at a cafe (even if you don't speak Spanish), the thrill you get from watching a couple performing a tango on a San Telmo street corner, the smile of a child wearing a Boca Juniors T-shirt. Maybe you'll be privileged to be offered a sip of yerba tea from a stranger's mate (pronounced mah-tay) cup, a social tradition in Argentina. Perhaps a shopkeeper will point you in the direction of a fabulous tavern. And, maybe you'll dance the tango in an after-hours social club.

12th Jan 2028 Wednesday

Montevideo

08:00

17:00

13th Jan 2028 Thursday

At Sea

14th Jan 2028 Friday

At Sea

15th Jan 2028 Saturday

Port Stanley

09:00

21:00

16th Jan 2028 Sunday

At Sea

17th Jan 2028 Monday

Puerto Williams

07:00

13:00

18th Jan 2028 Tuesday

Cruising by Cape Horn

09:00

15:00

19th Jan 2028 Wednesday

Ushuaia

07:00

Little can prepare you for your arrival into the southernmost city in the world, the city closest to Antarctica, bordered by the last peaks of the Andes mountains and the Beagle Channel (named for Charles Darwin's ship, HMS Beagle) -- surrounded by lakes and bays, forests and glaciers, and one of the fastest-growing tourist destinations in Argentina. More than 300 cruise ships call here during the season (October to May), disgorging thousands of passengers, all of whom contribute substantially to the city's economy. Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) is an archipelago located at the southernmost tip of the South American continent. It's bisected and divided; part belongs to Chile and part -- the portion in which lies Ushuaia -- belongs to Argentina. In fact, there is a friendly rivalry, of sorts, since Chile claims the southernmost town in the world, Puerto Williams with a population of about 2,800. Ushuaia is the capital of the Tierra del Fuego, Antarctica and Southern Atlantic Islands Province of Argentina, a mouthful usually condensed into three little words, which also includes claims on the Falkland Islands (Las Malvinas) and South Georgia. The area is known colloquially (and on tourist-branded caps and T-shirts) as "Fin del Mundo" -- or End of the World. This can easily conjure images of a bleak and barren landscape, but nothing could be further from the truth. Ushuaia is a land of rainbows and forests, vivid colors and vibrant personality. Its climate is far more moderate than assumed as it is well-protected by the Martial Mounts of the Andes range, the Beagle Channel and the sea. Founded in October 1884, the location was considered too remote for most. The Argentine government designated it a penal colony in 1896 (the jail was completed in 1902). Up until that time, the entire region was occupied by the Yamana Indians and a handful of missionaries. The last of the Yamanas perished at the end of the 20th century; the penal colony existed through 1947. The old jail is one of the most visited attractions in Ushuaia today. Ushuaia is where the majority of the Argentine navy set sail to do battle in the 1982 Falklands War, and there is a memorial to those who died just west of the town center. You'll also spot signs and graffiti in the town claiming that Las Malvinas are, in fact, Argentine-run. There is no residual animosity evident toward English tourists, but it's probably best to avoid discussing the still controversial topic (the sovereignty issue is far from resolved). Cruise passengers arriving in Ushuaia are able to take advantage of excursion boats that venture into the Beagle Channel, the historic "Train at the End of the World" and Tierra del Fuego National Park (see Don't Miss). It's an ideal destination for wildlife viewing, fishing, skiing, hiking, biking, dining and shopping. Native spider crabs and king crabs are served in restaurants throughout the city, and all shopping is tax-free (but still eye-wateringly expensive). The city is growing at an astonishing rate, and development is rampant. Great tracts of forest have been cut down to cater to the burgeoning population, and the outskirts of the city now sprawls along the Beagle Channel. Be warned that nominally duty-free, prices in the main restaurants and shops along Avenida San Martin range from high to exploitative.