A Mediterranean Prelude to Explora III

Sometimes, cities are lucky enough to reinvent themselves. Genoa, given short shrift in travel guides 20 years ago, has undergone a striking renaissance since 1992, when it hosted an international expo to commemorate the 500-year anniversary of the discovery of the New World. Nowhere is that benefit more evident than at Porto Antico, the old port close to the marine terminal, where many of today's cruise ships now dock. What once was a seedy waterfront on Northern Italy's Mediterranean is now a charming blend of old and new structures, featuring cafes, shops, a movie complex, a maritime museum, a spectacular play and cultural center for kids and, most importantly, the largest aquarium in Europe. From a distance, the Genoa cityscape -- climbing up a steep, green hillside from the Ligurian sea -- is awash in Mediterranean color: ochre, pink and red. It's a big town with more than 600,000 people, but it has a small-town feel and layout that make it imminently walkable. In fact, Genoa's foremost calling cards -- its historic center; the Piazza de Ferrari, where the Opera and Palace of the Doges are located; the chic shopping avenue, Via XX Settembre; and the largely pedestrian-only streets that hug the Cathedral of San Lorenzo -- are all within a 10- to 20-minute walk of Porto Antico. Genoa, or Genova in Italian, has a rich history dating back to ancient times, but it's probably best known for Christopher Columbus, its most famous native celebrity. It has long been associated with the arts, and in 2004 the European Union designated Genoa as a European Capital of Culture. In 2006, a mid-16th century district on Via Garibaldi that houses an architecturally important ensemble of Renaissance and Baroque palaces was included on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Genoa typically serves as a port of embarkation or disembarkation, so it isn't often given high priority as a shore excursion. Our best advice? Enjoy a day here before or after your cruise. It's worth it.

Sometimes, cities are lucky enough to reinvent themselves. Genoa, given short shrift in travel guides 20 years ago, has undergone a striking renaissance since 1992, when it hosted an international expo to commemorate the 500-year anniversary of the discovery of the New World. Nowhere is that benefit more evident than at Porto Antico, the old port close to the marine terminal, where many of today's cruise ships now dock. What once was a seedy waterfront on Northern Italy's Mediterranean is now a charming blend of old and new structures, featuring cafes, shops, a movie complex, a maritime museum, a spectacular play and cultural center for kids and, most importantly, the largest aquarium in Europe. From a distance, the Genoa cityscape -- climbing up a steep, green hillside from the Ligurian sea -- is awash in Mediterranean color: ochre, pink and red. It's a big town with more than 600,000 people, but it has a small-town feel and layout that make it imminently walkable. In fact, Genoa's foremost calling cards -- its historic center; the Piazza de Ferrari, where the Opera and Palace of the Doges are located; the chic shopping avenue, Via XX Settembre; and the largely pedestrian-only streets that hug the Cathedral of San Lorenzo -- are all within a 10- to 20-minute walk of Porto Antico. Genoa, or Genova in Italian, has a rich history dating back to ancient times, but it's probably best known for Christopher Columbus, its most famous native celebrity. It has long been associated with the arts, and in 2004 the European Union designated Genoa as a European Capital of Culture. In 2006, a mid-16th century district on Via Garibaldi that houses an architecturally important ensemble of Renaissance and Baroque palaces was included on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Genoa typically serves as a port of embarkation or disembarkation, so it isn't often given high priority as a shore excursion. Our best advice? Enjoy a day here before or after your cruise. It's worth it.

Marseille, gateway to Provence, is France's largest port and second largest city, with a vast history stretching back more than 2,000 years to its foundation by the Greeks in the 6th century BC. While much of the city is urban sprawl, it has a spectacular setting between dramatic limestone hills and the Mediterranean, and the once-industrial streets now feature stylish shops and cutting-edge art galleries, thanks to investment from its role as European Capital of Culture 2013. Most cruisers make a beeline for Le Vieux Port, a buzzing, picturesque harbour lined with boutiques, restaurants and cafes. This district attracts an eclectic crowd, from local fishermen to millionaires venturing ashore from James Bond-style mega-yachts. All gather to soak up Le Vieux Port's charming atmosphere, browse its bustling markets and tuck into a bowl of Marseille's classic signature dish, bouillabaisse (a rich fish stew).

Saint-Tropez conjures up images of the good life, beautiful people, yachts and paparazzi. Yet, that luscious strip of seacoast in the Cote d'Azur region was once a sleepy fishing village offering little more retail panache than a few sandal makers. The balmy Mediterranean spot was first adopted in the 19th century by writers and artists, who migrated there from Paris in the summers. It became an international sensation in the 1960's after Brigitte Bardot put on a bikini and starred in a film ("And God Created Woman," directed by her then-husband Roger Vadim). She liked the area so much that she settled in the community, and the photographers followed. Then, other celebrities showed up. And ... voila. But what's with the name? Who has ever heard of a saint named Tropez? The story told is this: In 1055, one of Nero's centurions (a certain fellow named Torpes) refused to forsake his religion and was beheaded in Pisa. His body and head were placed in a boat, along with a dog and a rooster. The animals were supposed to eat his body and conceal the crime, but when the boat floated into the estuary of what was then called Athenopolis, the head and body were found intact. Apparently, the dog watched over it and protected it. The town name was changed to Ecclesia Sancti Torpetis, and after the French Revolution, it became Saint-Tropez. Because of medieval Fido's loyalty, it's said that dogs in Saint-Tropez bear as much cachet today as any rich movie star, and it's also said that you can get in anywhere, even into the packed and exclusive Les Caves du Roy night club, if you bring a well-dressed dog. And indeed, as you amble the streets and squares around this charming village, you see lots of well-behaved pooches with their owners, enjoying the Provencal sun. The first things that you see when you arrive in the harbour, however, are the glamorous yachts at anchor or manoeuvring into the port. The yachts that do find berths in the old port harbour are smaller than the floating palaces at anchor, but they are also the ones that back up their aft ends to the quais so the occupants can lunch in full view of the walking, gawking masses. It's quite a show. And also expensive: It costs 5,000 euros per day to dock a yacht in the old port harbour during the official summer "social season," from July 10 to August 15. Berths are typically booked for three years in advance. The town itself is a jumble of ochre-coloured buildings surrounding the port and narrow streets and alleys that climb away from it to the hills above. The Citadelle, an ancient fortress on a rise, stands guard and is visible from the sea. Most of the town's industry depends on tourism, but what you have when you strip away the celebrities, the yachts and the paparazzi is a happy, comfortable place -- a small French town with history and a sense of place, a maritime sensibility, world-renowned sandals and the famous Tarte Tropezienne, a cream-and-sponge cake developed by a relocated Pole from a recipe he got from his grandmother. It's a glorious place, the perfect embodiment of the French Riviera, smaller than Nice or Cannes -- even without a stellar beach. The best thing about Saint-Tropez is that you can make it your own and choose the way you want to see it -- a playground for spoiled rich folk or charming little Provencal town.

Lovely, much more laid back than other -- splashier -- Cote d'Azur resort towns like Nice, Cannes and Monaco, Villefranche, whose old town dates back to the 14th century, evokes a romantic, historic feel. For those weary of sightseeing, it's a terrific port for hanging out and relaxing.

On any Western Mediterranean itinerary, Florence is an absolute highlight -- the gem of the early Italian Renaissance. In the 15th century, when great artists like Giotto, Ghiberti, Brunelleschi and Michelangelo worked there, they created magnificent examples of painting and sculpture that today still fill Florentine churches, civic buildings, grand palazzi and world-class museums like the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia. Architecture prospered in Florence, too. The city's signature work of art is the masterful Brunelleschi-designed dome of its cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore, known as the Duomo. No question, Florence is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. However, for cruise travelers with just one precious day on a six-hour port of call, it's impossible to see it all. We should note that, as lovely as Florence's famous River Arno is, it's nowhere near big enough (and its bridges are far too low) to allow any kind of ship inside the heart of the city -- and here we include low-slung river vessels along with more traditional cruise ships. As such, it can be confusing to see a cruise itinerary that calls on Florence when ships actually dock at the huge commercial port of Livorno, a good hour-plus drive from the Renaissance City. However, the charmless city of Livorno (it was badly bombed during World War II) serves as a jumping-off point for daytrips elsewhere. And while Florence is no doubt the richest destination of all, Livorno's north Tuscan locale means that other cities -- Pisa, with its famous leaning tower; the walled city of Lucca; and San Gimignano, with 14 of its medieval towers still intact -- are also options.

The capital city in the land of Leonardo, Michelangelo and the popes is today a living museum with gorgeous artwork, amazing architecture and inspiring ancient sites. At the same time, it's alive and vibrant in a 21st-century way. It's an unforgettable city to visit, and we'll warn you right now that once you've experienced it, you'll want to go back for more.

One of our favorite things to do there is walk and ogle. On a recent visit, we took one day to do the route from Vatican City and St. Peter's Basilica -- with its jaw-dropping art, statuary, and religious significance -- to Via del Corso, where our quest for the latest Italian fashions was more than fulfilled amidst the well-dressed crowd of Roman shoppers. The next day, we went on an ancient history quest past ruins and columns, traversing the same streets Julius Caesar strode (and rode) to the Colosseum, where gladiators once battled. Walking on, we were awed by the Pantheon, the well-preserved ancient symbol of Rome and now a great hangout spot.

First-time visitors, many envisioning Rome as big and congested, will be surprised by the scenic layout, with its famous seven hills and the Tiber River running through the city. (Cleopatra famously made her grand entrance from the river.) And the senses may be shocked by the general energy, hustle and bustle. With cars, taxis and scooters roaring here and there, crossing the street can be a challenge. (Don't worry; there are quiet piazzas aplenty with lovely cafes where you can get away from it all and unwind.)

The food is, of course, wonderful -- we can't eat enough pasta -- and the spirit of la dolce vita (the good life) abounds. Whenever we do such a quest in Rome, we do regular gelato stops (try the yummy pine nut flavor) or coffee breaks. And the shopping scene serves up Prada, Gucci, Armani and more. (High style can be found in more affordable brands like Furla, as well.) What could be better than that?

No question, Rome has one of the world's most important collections of once-in-a-lifetime sights to see, including St. Peter's Basilica and the Sistine Chapel, the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Forum and on and on and on. And for those historic monuments alone, the city is worth a visit.

But if you're on an itinerary where Rome is just a port of call for the day, you won't see everything. Either resign yourself to that fact, or book a tour that will at least drive you by the main sights. Be aware the port for Rome, Civitavecchia, is about 1.5 to 2 hours from the city. (There is decent train service.) If you're beginning or ending your cruise there, plan to stay at least a couple of nights to explore the Eternal City; it's likely to steal a piece of your heart. Make sure to drop a coin in Trevi Fountain, which is said to assure you'll come back again.